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Archive for March, 2009

Game On!

The official word has (sort of) come down. Tibet is open as of April 5. So we should be good to go for all that.  At least, that’s what the AP tells me.

In more local news, I’m currently in steamy Kochi (formerly known as Cochin).  This was an ancient port, and has spent times dominated by the Protuguese, Dutch, and British.  There’s also a Jewish settlement dating back to 72 AD.  We’ve spent the past couple days, however, in the “backwaters” of Kerala.  The backwaters describes this huge region of fresh water lakes and rivers that fill sections of Kerala state.  They actually sit below sea level, and form a huge system of canals that function as the “roads” of the region.  Time moves a little slower while floating on these lanes.  We stayed at some homes for the night.  There were two things that I hadn’t done in a long time here.

1. I played hide and seek with the kids.  I haven’t done that in far too long.

2. I saw rain.  I haven’t seen rain in months.  I’m not normally a big fan of rain, but I don’t think I’d ever gone this long without seeing it!

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Progress… Of A Sort

Currently I’m chilling out on the cliffs of Varkala, in Kerala state.  It’s pretty nice.  I don’t have the heart to tell the hippies here that the 60’s ended 4 decades ago, though…

That must have been a weird change here in India.  Before 1948, virtually all the Western foreigners here were British here on behalf of either the imperial government or some slothful corporation with a captive market.  They had exclusive clubs, racetracks, train carriages.  They always dressed sharply.  20 years later, the Beatles came to Rishikesh.  Suddenly all the foreigners were hippies, who have a rather different style and agenda.  They are generally much nicer people than imperialists… but that had to be weird.

Should I tell them that half the Beatles are dead?  And that one of the survivors is Ringo?  I don’t have the heart…

OK, I’ve worked out my official exit from India.  I’ll be flying to Kathmandu on April 14, to the drier, cooler goodness that is EXTREMELY high elevations.  From there, well, we’ll see.

Apparently, the Chinese have decided to make tomorrow an official holiday in Tibet (only), to commemorate the 50th anniversary of the abolition of serfdom after they “emancipation” of serfdom there.  This is expected to piss some people off.  So, foreigners remain barred from the region “into early April”.  I’m supposed to be in Lhasa April 25th or so.  I’ll have official word as to wheter my tour will happen on April 1st.

In other news, apparently North Korea (I’m sorry, The People’s Democratic Republic of Korea) has decided to shoot some more missiles in Japan’s direction, Japan (I’m sorry, The Island Empire of Japan, to use the official DPRK term) has decided to shoot down anything that comes at it, and the DPRK has vowed to consider that an act of war.  Great.

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Eat Along With Tadhog

Mmmmmm...

Mmmmmm...

For those following along at home, here’s your chance to eat along with Tadhog!  All across South India, there’s this great restaurant called Saravana Bhavan.  It’s clean, quick (qualities not always found in Indian restaurants), and very tasty.  For my New York peoples, I highly recommend dropping by their location on Lexington Ave at 26th St for some Southern style vegetarian goodness.

While you’re there, you can impress your date with the curious story of the chain’s owner, Rajagopal.

Actually, it’s a bit cafeteria-like, so maybe not a date destination…  Anyway, this guy is interesting.  Apparently, a while back, his astrologer told him that he should marry a specific woman, because there stars/planets/mojo matched up.  Problem was, this woman was already married to one of his employees.  “No problem,” says the astrologer, “kill the guy.”  So, Rajagopal apparently goes and does so.  The cops in Chennai bring him to court.  He’s found guilty, and is in the process of being sentenced to life in prison, when the lawyers of Chennai go on strike.

Yup, that’s right, the lawyers went on strike.  It gets weirder.  This was in January.  The lawyers end their strike on February 19th.  Upon retunring to work, for reasons I can’t find out, they then rioted in the courthouse, attacked police officers, and burn down the courthouse’s police station.

Needless to say, the case was delayed again.  The case finally wrapped up when the court reopened this past Monday.  Rajagopal surrendered himself to the court in the afternoon, and they finished the sentencing paperwork around 7.  The court then tried to put him into police custody to be brought to jail.  But there were no cops to hand him over to.  The police refuse to enter courthouse grounds, lest another riot ensue.  So Mr. Rajagopal was escorted by his lawyer down to the precinct to be put into custody.

Righto.  Anyway, go and try a masala dhosa.  It’s wicked good.

Masala Dosa

Masala Dosa

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OK, pop quiz!

Name the only 3 churches in the world built on top of tombs of an Apostle.  St. Peter’s in Rome is kind of a gimmie.  Next is Saint James in Spain.  The last one?  Saint Thomas.  Where?  In Chennai, India.  Really.  It was a bit weird yesterday, especially since I didn’t know that any apostles went to India.  Almost randomly we came across this church by the beach in Chennai.  Apparently, after doubting Jesus, Tom prosletyzed in the Holy Land for a spell and then came to India to spread the faith.  He was martyred here after about 20 years.

As for my own doubts, they’ve been partially dispelled.  I was getting a bit burned out on travel, but once I got mobilized down here, things have gotten a bit better.  I’m getting quite excited for the Himalayas after talking with some people down here who went there earlier.  This is especially because it’s so freakin’ hot here, and is set to get hotter.

So, after 30 fairly pleasant hours on a train, I’m in South India.  It’s a lot greener here, which is very nice.  It’s about as hot as up North, but extremely muggy.  The train was long, but comfy, and I, or course, got to meet people.  One of my fellow travelers was a Wealth Manager for an Indian investment bank, so we got to talk shop.  Every stock market is down a lot, but apparently it’s really bad here, since most clients were heavily exposed to domestic equities, and the Sensex index has dropped from 22,000 to… uh… 8,000.  Ouch.  Apparently he thinks it’s a good place to buy value though.

After several showers (great way to beat the heat!), I met my next tour group in Chennai.  We decamped this morning for Mamallapuram, where there’s some pretty impressive rock sculptures.  Tomorrow we head further South: my favorite direction.

In other news, some of my friends have been busy back in New York making some funny TV commercials.  You should watch them, laugh at them, and (most importantly) vote for them:

The Doctor

http://contest.jimbeam.com/jimbeam/index.php?play=11761&page=3

The Puppy

http://contest.jimbeam.com/jimbeam/index.php?play=11759&page=3

The Saurus

http://contest.jimbeam.com/jimbeam/index.php?play=11748&page=5

The Interview

http://contest.jimbeam.com/jimbeam/index.php?play=11747&page=5

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Kolkata

“The City Fomerly Known As Calcutta” was the capital of the British Raj, a well as the most important center for the British East India Compay.  We got in yesterday, and I scheduled myself to leave almost right away, envisioning Kolkata to be a horrible place (I mean, this was the home of Mother Theresa).  Actually, it is surprisingly nice, and feels rather like another 19th-century-British-creation-now-run-by Communists, Shanghai.  Kolkata is just packed with crumbling 19th century buildings and tons and tons of people.  Very atmospheric.  Also, unlike most Indian towns and cities, almost nobody here bugs me when walking around.  People here have better things to do than pester the white guy for money nonstop.

This is just a quick update for now.  I’m getting on a 30 hour train ride tonight to Chennai (formerly known as Madras), and then set to head across the South.

Speaking of atmosphere, below is a picture of an Ambassador taxi.  These things are awesome.  Kolkata is filled with them, and their seriously retro look adds something to the city.  If you see one with a light on the front though, that’s a government car.  It’s good to know that the “humble” ministers are whisked around so conveniently in their homespun outfits.

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Happy St. Patrick’s Day from Varanasi!

Varanasi, situated on the banks of the Mother Ganges, might just be the holiest city in Hinduism.  Apparently, if you die and are cremated here, you get put in the express line to heaven, instead of coming back for another life.  I don’t really understand why this may be, but people travel from all over the subcontinent because of it.  They come as pilgrims to bath in its waters.  Those who expect to expire soon come here to die and be cremated.  It’s quite something to see.  The bathers are especially interesting once you see how nasty the water is here… ewww.

We took a boat out onto the river at dawn this morning, to watch all the priests and bathers.  I swear, I’ve seen seen more sunrises in India than the USA.  Of course, now that it’s 35 degrees Celsius in the middle of the day, I’ve become a big fan of the sunrise/sunset schedule.  I basically get up for dawn, wander about town until it gets hot (about 11am), take a nap, then get up again and shower at 2 or 3 pm.  We’re going to see how I handle the heat for the rest of this trip, because it only gets hotter from here…  and 35 degrees is really freakin’ hot already.

Anyway, the thing about Varanasi today is that, well, I can wear my green, but I can’t get myself a Guinness.  In fact, since we’re staying in a hotel run by Brahmins, we can’t get any alcohol at all, since it is considered “polluted” food, and brahmins avoid pollution at all costs.  This includes meat, garlic, and onion.

I really do not want to come back as a brahmin in the next life.

In other news, I had my palm and star signs read yesterday.  I will apparently live until I’m 90, so I guess I should keep contributing to the retirement plan.  There don’t appear to be any sort of money or health problems, which is good, and I’ll start my own business (or something similar) when I’m 39 or 40.  All around, not too shabby.

No worries though.  I’ve got my green on, and had my first haircut and shave of the trip this morning.  I’ve never had a barber shave with a blade before.  It was thorough and comfortable, despite being a straight blade next to my throat!  The “head and facial massage” that followed was actually slightly less comfortable, since the barber basically buffed my face with some big vibrating-plate device, and then shoved his finger down my ear canal.  I am clean-shaven now though.

Now I’m off to get back on the Ganges.  Once the sun sets, the ghats (a ghat is a set of steps down to the water) come alive with further prayers, wishing, bathing, and ceremonies.  Also with fire.  Cremation fires.  You basically get to watch fires being built on top of bodies.  As the bodies are consumed, the ashes fly up and then into the river.  Downstream, people are simulatneously bathing in said river – and presumably in other people’s ashes.  If you want to appreciate the cycle of life, death, and rebirth, it’s all right here.

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Taj Mahal and Other Photos

OK, so I got some Taj Mahal pictures for ya.  Be warned, there are a LOT of action shots, but they’re totally awesome!!

Check out the full set at http://www.flickr.com/photos/35629022@N04/sets/72157614980743031/

Currently in Agra, leaving for Calcutta tonight.

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Holi!

Holi is the festival of colors, and marks the beginning of Spring in India. The whole country celebrated it on the 10th and 11th of of March. My crew here and I did too, and it was a blast!

There is a bit of a lead-up to the holiday, as Hindu temples start having extra services and stuff a few days ahead. The fun part of Holi is on the 11th though (this changes according to the lunar calendar). That’s the day people play with paint. The streets of India’s towns and cities become reminiscent of a George Romero zombie movie. Hordes of men, absolutely doused in paint roam about. They are covered in in pink and purple, green, blue, and yellow, and are typically very drunk. Little kids everywhere run about, hurling paint powder or paint mixed with water at anybody on the street.

Something like this... but with more pink.

Something like this... but with more pink.

This is mostly in good fun, but with the levels of spirits and inebriation, it actually gets a bit dangerous. Many people mix paints with dangerous chemicals that burn people. Women are molested(that’;s why the streets are full of dudes. All the women watch from the rooftops). Apparently a couple people died in Delhi when some of that pesky “communal violence” broke out. In order to avoid any situations, our tour guide hired a bus and took some routes to avoid the biggest gatherings. It was like riding through a Mad Max movie. Young kids put rocks in the road in order to set up road blocks. Our guide yelled at the driver not to slow down. We took a back road into the hotel to avoid stone-hurling youths. It was quite strange, and really reminded me of Kosovo or Albania.

Once we arrived, though, we had a grand time. There are some photos out there with a lot of paint on me.

A little bit of color...

This trip is Tadhog Approved

The 12th also marks one month on the road for me. Fortunately, I have somehow avoided getting The Big D (you know, where you go to the toilet a lot). Now that I’ve posted that fact, I’m sure to get it in the next 24 hours… It’s funny though, I read up so much about it before leaving that I end up in random conversations about people’s bodily functions. I’ve run into the same French woman in 2 cities. I still don’t know her name, but we’ve had successive conversations about her dysentery. You have some great conversations in this country…

So far I’ve hit up 3 countries on 2 continents in 3 time zones. I got a bunch more to go. I’m currently in Agra, just steps away from the famous Taj Mahal. It is probably “the most extravagant monument ever built for love”, but for some reason, I can’t stop thinking “Tango Down!” in my head. I think I played too much Rainbow Six in high school. I’ll actually enter the grounds tomorrow to see the sunrise. Then it will be off to Varanasi, then Calcutta, and then down south.

Since my last update, a bunch of us did some biking and climbing in Pushkar. Biking around Indian roads really early in the morning is quite sublime, as everyone is still asleep, and the constant hustle and din of a million cars, bikes, hawkers, beggars, et al has not started yet. The cows are still there, though, and one must avoid them. The only cow trouble I had was when one cow decided to headbut me while I was chaining my bike to a post. I’m not sure what his problem with me was…

After that we went to Bharatpur, which was the last stop in Rajastan. There are many famous birds there. I’m really not excited by birds.

Oh, and now that I’m near the Taj Mahal, there are going to be so many action shots. It’s going to rule.

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Photos!

I’ve added two new photo sets, North India and Dubai.  Check out the links to the right!

I also added a few more photos to the Egypt set.

Current Location is Pushkar, Rajastan, India.

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More Egypt Photos!

Here’s the link to Double D’s (more thorough) gallery of photos: http://www.kodakgallery.com/ShareLanding.action?c=ckqqliq.klhjgmy&x=0&y=4jpsjs&localeid=en_US&cm_mmc=site_email-_-site_share-_-core-_-view_photos_album

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